Thread: Air shifter problems!!!

My air shifter is having trouble shifting into 5th gear. the last two times @ the strip it will shift 1st through 4th just fine but when i get to that last shift it will not go into gear.if anybody has any advice or a starting point for me to start digging it would be a great help!!

P.S. it is cycle-tek co2 shifter!!

what is the kill time set at
maybe its just a little to short a time for the higher gears to shift?
there are a few things to look at with shift problems
what is the pressure set at to shift also?

Pinky, I was adjusting the kill time all night from longer to shorter. next I will adjust the pressure thank you for taking the time to help!!

Here's my thoughts and findings,

First thing is weight your bottle. You can have high pressure and low volume which will continually only make X amount of shifts before not making the final shift as it's depleted by that time(progressive depletion rather then repetative depletion or some sh!t like that).
At anyrate, add 9ozs to the following to get to the full measurements:
Empty steel bottle only = 1lb-6ozs
Empty aluminum bottle only = 14ozs

Then increase your kill time(all the way clock wise) so it's slow enough to allow the shift. Set your shift pressure 135 +/- range(I haven't missed one shift at 140psi but had some missed ones at 120-125psi). If your pressure is to high it can cause the solenoid to get to cold and not shift, and too low can can of course not make the shift.

Also make sure you have stroke(throw) left at the 4th to 5th shift.
IE: on the bench and not runnning, while turning the wheel pull it in 5th gear to it's farthest point and hold it there at full stroke and mark or measure the exposed amount of rod not in the cylinder, now remove the pin from the shift lever and see how much is left after that when you pull the rod all the way out.

Also what bottle are you using the steel or the aluminum(steel is round bottom, aluminum is flat bottom)? If you have the aluminum then the release valve pin in the top is reccessed about .030" or so(where as the steel is flush), so the aluminum is very tempermental in selaing and needs to be fully seated 100%. Make sure the regulator is seated fully and mark the the edge of it and the bottle with a sharpie to use as a quick reference of it not having come lose from vibrtion etc.

And don't forget to call Matt.... he's there to help.
Todd

narider, thank you for the help I will be spending some time in the garage and have e-mailed Matt so i should have this licked in no time! thanks again I am going to have to have my bike tip top so when we finaly get to the track at the same time we can have some good races.

:-x

Originally Posted by cle2ric

:-x

Loose line or outta Co2?
Todd

Originally Posted by cle2ric

I am going to have to have my bike tip top so when we finaly get to the track at the same time we can have some good races.

You're getting better odds everyday. I snagged a part or two off my GSXR for my Harley to run at Maxton the other weekend, and now Deb's eyeballing my bike and looks to be taking more then just notes!!!!
Todd

What's the scoop? Did ya figure it out?
Todd

I have not figured it out yet but I have not had time to take the bike to my test spot to see if what i have done worked!!

Moisture in the lines??

Not sure about the moisture but I will check thanks.

I think i got it fixed!!! I think it was the throw of cylinder. Looked at it and made some adjustments and now have to take it to the test road and make sure it is fixed!! but just wanted to say thanks for all the help (narider) and everyone else who posted.

Good deal, I was wondering where you had been hiding.

Glad to hear and hope that's it Cleric, there's no real damage related outcome from the stroke being too short.. it just isn't getting the the next gear locked in fully(little roundness on the dogs would be the worst if you kept it up for a long time but you'd of heard it trying to go in gear and not actually make it).

SInce it's a pull function for the upshift just shorten up the rod(to expose more of the rod in the normal position), by adjusting the clevis up on the rod as far as you can. Only go as far as needed without the end of the rod coming thru the clevis far enough to hit the shiftlever. That should do ya if that's the problem.

Let us know,
Todd

hi new here dont want 2 start any crap but those cycle tek shifters are crap friend of mine had one 4 2 yrs nothin but trouble matt sent him all new parts finaly talked him into mps and hes had no problem sence another guy at track got one and same prob wouldnt shift hope this helps imo get rid of it and get mps

Originally Posted by ericsbusa

hi new here

I'd say welcome but in this case you're not by me unless you qualify your statements below in a helpful manner.

Originally Posted by ericsbusa

hi new here dont want 2 start any crap but those cycle tek shifters are crap

Eric, tough shlt you just did start crap with those words being put out that way.

Originally Posted by ericsbusa

those cycle tek shifters are crap friend of mine had one 4 2 yrs nothin but trouble matt sent him all new parts finaly talked him into mps and hes had no problem sence another guy at track got one and same prob wouldnt shift

If you care to get a little more techinical then "they're crap" and share that with us then I'd be happy to listen, but until you know something(actually anything apparently) about air shifters - then I'd reccomend anyone reading what you say on this topic refer to your words as pure brainless hater BS for whatever reason it is.
If your "friend" or "other guy" care to share their experiences in a "constructive manner", I'm sure many of us would be happy to listen to that also. Who on earth would run a shifter that doesn't work for 2 years.... I think the technical difficulty must of been between the button and the seat for your friend.


Matt will bend over backwards for his customers and to my knowledge "almost" everytime he's had to do that... it has been from the customer's lack of knowledge, ability to follow directions or extenuating circumstances unrelated to Cycle-Tek parts.


Not that there aren't bad parts possible with anything purchased anywhere of course, but to call Matt's kit crap within an hour of joining this board in your 2nd post ever and then say "I dont' want to start crap" in a post of people trying to diagnose a problem and a member asking for help is... well , think about it dude! Not to mention that doing it without detailing any issues & symptoms that were present or reoccuring, or troubleshooting & diagnosis that was done, or the repair attempts and final outcome before 'throwing another system at the problem' is just useless. If that's how you and your friend troubleshoot, do yourselves a favor by getting good and drunk and hiding each others tools from each other.

Originally Posted by ericsbusa

hope this helps imo get rid of it and get mps

How possibbly could that help solve the problem if you don't know what the problem was?
I have a note I wrote over my counter a little over 7 years ago, it says
The difficulty is not solving the problem...
the difficulty is determining the correct problem to solve!


Do you think it would be right if your friend that bought a shifter from Cycle-Tek wasn't mechanically inclined enough to make it work correctly all of the time, and after I hear about it I go out on the forum of suppliers I hang out on and say "so and so can't get a shifter to work, he's a moron... so I wouldn't sell him anything mechanical, you'd be better off finding any other customer then him". Well that's what you just did.

Anyone can bltch, look around you and be part of the solution(you don't have to have the solution, just help lead the way to it)... you'll get alot more out of your time spent on the internet and alot more returned to you via simple old karma, trust me.
Todd

I just wanted to add that i got it fixed with HELP from narider and Matt so thanks again for the HELP.

Glad to hear all is well Jimmy,
Todd

i have one of matt's shifter on my 04 and i been having it for almost a year now and i love it